Social 121

New owner, Scott Siers, opened Social 121, gave it a motto (“Eat. Drink. Love.”) and set about to cast it as a more casual interactive entertainment place, with a nightclub on the side. Siers said, “We’re not in the restaurant business, and
we’re not in the nightclub business. We’re in the entertainment business.” The focus, he said, would be on “the whole social aspect, with social networking. We want it to be a social gathering place, for people to dance, dine and enjoy themselves.”

What’s going on here?

The place still looks like a nightclub, but it definitely tastes like a restaurant — and a pretty good one. Executive chef Jason Skinner, who served as Wilcox’s sous-chef at Loft 610, is responsible for that.

But one plate fairly blows me away: a Maker’s Mark pork chop. The thick, bone-in cut, brined then grilled to plump pinkness and judiciously sauced with a veal demi-glace laced with bourbon, has outstanding flavor and supreme juiciness — fantastic. Skinner serves it with tangy braised red cabbage and a small cube of sweet potato gratin, sweet and rich, built from wafer-thin slices. Skinner ought to have his head examined if he takes this off the menu anytime soon.

Pastry chef Kara Blair, another Loft 610 alum, turns out well-made desserts with some pizazz, like a sophisticated trio of mini-cupcakes or a moist pumpkin roulade on spiced crème anglaise, topped with a dollop of blackberry compote.

Social 121 is a curious spot; the vast and clubby dining room fits the often impressive cooking like an outsized suit. When football takes over those giant flat screens, it doesn’t help. My hunch is that if this level of food and service were dropped into a warmer, less wiggy setting, diners would flock there.
Meanwhile, Skinner, who cooks with heart, imagination and care, is definitely a chef worth watching.